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Westerly Centaur window modifications
The original portlights in my Centaur were beginning to look their age with one of the glass inserts cracked, and the seals needing to be replaced. I also feel that the V berth needs plenty of light and I like light and airy boats anyway. Hanging around ebay for a while, I picked up a pair of new round stainless Vetus (I always find Vetus products to be superb quality) 150mm portlights for £40 and in a separate purchase I picked up a pair of brand new alloy portlights PS76 for £120 including flyscreens. This is about half the RRP so I was happy with the deal. The purists may not like the idea of hacking away at GRP but I never baulk at a challenge and I LOVE the light airy feel in the heads, drying area and forepeak. The round portlights are roughly the same OD as the old ones, but the glazed panel is much larger. (Click on any image for a larger view)
The original portlights in my Centaur were beginning to look their age with one of the glass inserts cracked, and the seals needing to be replaced. I also feel that the V berth needs plenty of light and I like light and airy boats anyway. Hanging around ebay for a while, I picked up a pair of new round stainless Vetus (I always find Vetus products to be superb quality) 150mm portlights for £40 and in a separate purchase I picked up a pair of brand new alloy portlights PS76 for £120 including flyscreens. This is about half the RRP so I was happy with the deal. The purists may not like the idea of hacking away at GRP but I never baulk at a challenge and I LOVE the light airy feel in the heads, drying area and forepeak. The round portlights are roughly the same OD as the old ones, but the glazed panel is much larger. (Click on any image for a larger view)
This is the old (original) portlight and a new stainless Vetus portlight. Although the OD is not too different between the two, the Vetus unit has a larger glazed area and allows more light in.
First task is to remove the six screws that hold the internal portlight in place, and then the six screws that hold the external trim in place (shown above).
Next, take a weighty mel (Geordie for a hammer) and tap the protruding edge of the portlight, working your way around the circumference.
As the portlight moves in to the boat, you will need to use a piece of timber with your hammer to tap it all the way through. (If you have a nice new loo in there, get someone to catch it before it falls!)
Here you see the portlight about to fall in to the boat.
It is up to you whether you remove the internal wood packing piece. (Se next picture for details)
Mark the circumference of the OD of the new portlight. Then go for the jig saw (note that you will need a special tungsten carbide tipped GRP/plastics blade as GRP blunts wood/metal blades very quickly)
Mark the circumference of the OD of the new portlight. Then go for the jig saw (note that you will need a special tungsten carbide tipped GRP/plastics blade as GRP blunts wood/metal blades very quickly)
If you want remove the internal timber packing piece, it is held in place by four screws on the OUTSIDE of the boat, under a resin filler as shown.
Finished item, silcone trimmed, ready for touch-up paint around circumference.
Now we move on to the new V berth windows. My Centaur is an older one which did not have amy portlights in that area) If you have the nerve, mark out the shape of the new window (measure FOUR times, cut once 8:)
This is the external view.
This is the external view.
This is the internal view before I got happy with with the jig saw.
Damage done <grin>
Once the cut has been made, clean the edge with a powerfile (one of the most versatile tools I have ever bought) ready for the window.
Once the cut has been made, clean the edge with a powerfile (one of the most versatile tools I have ever bought) ready for the window.
Apply silicone (or other appropriate) sealant to the inside edge of the frame and press into position. Leave any plastic film glazing protection in place until everything is finished.
Apply silicone (or other appropriate) sealant to the inside trim ready to be placed into position.Vetus units have neat design idea; a slot all the way round the glazed frame. No drilling needed as the screws you insert through the trim ‘grab’ into the slot wherever they are.
Finished item - Internal view. Closed.
Finished item - Internal view. Open.
